Discovering Chenin Blanc

By Marc Mansco


Long before chardonnay started to grow in popularity in the mid-to-late 70s, chenin blanc was proportedly one of the most widely planted classic white grape in California. That Chenin blanc is even found there now, in even the smallest amount is not really a reflection of chenin blanc's character but, more evidence of chardonnay's easy likeability and successful promotional merits.

One of the most infamous, vibrant chenin blancs in the world comes from the Loire Valley in France. More specifically from the appellations Vouvray, Savennieres, Anjou, and Saumur. In particular, the great Vouvrays and savennieres are stunningly complex, long-lived vines with shimmering acidity. In the Loire, chenin blanc is made in a sevreal varietal degrees of sweetness from bone-dry to quite sweet.

Most have a touch of sweetness that is much less perceptible, the end result, is leaving a tiny bit of natural grape sugar or residual sugar in the wines to enhance the roundness and balance the acidity. A more fully sweet chenin blanc can be phenomenal. Among the most legendary of all, is Quarts de Chaume, from a modest area in the center of the Loire Valley.

Chenin blanc is also the leading white grape of South Africa, where it is known as steen. There, however, it is unfortunately made mostly into a simple, innocuous quaffing wine. In California, chenin blanc becomes a wine that is effortless to drink, with soft, round flavors reminiscent of pears, melons, apricots, red apples, peaches, and fruit-cocktail syrup. Although riesling in California can seem similar to chenin blanc, chenin is usually a fuller wine.

If all modern lives allowed for such seemingly lost pleasures, as to be sitting in a field of wildflowers and reading Madame Bovary or The Age of Innocence, then chenin blanc would be the most fitting wine to drink.

Chenin Blanc is grown and made principally in: California; France in the Loire Valley - where it is used vouvray, Savennieres, and other wines. South Africa; Texas, and Washington State.

For even more infomation on Chenin Blancs and other varietals, visit us on the web.




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